Personal Finance

Financial Literacy for College Students

Credit Score and Credit

A credit score is a number ranging from 300-850 that depicts a consumer's creditworthiness. The higher the credit score, the more attractive the borrower. A credit score is based on credit history.

Excellent: 800 to 850

Very Good: 740 to 799

Good: 670 to 739

Fair: 580 to 669

Poor: 300 to 579

There are many different reporting agencies and companies that can report on your credit score but they are all based on the same factors. Starting from scratch means you will have a low score initially and need to build up trust before making big loans.

Deciding to open a line of credit is a big choice and should not be taken lightly. By opening a line of credit you now can build your credit before you enter the workforce and set yourself up for success. But, if you are not responsible, then you will set yourself up for failure and should strongly consider postponing this decision. Even if you are responsible, you need to keep track of your monthly statements to make sure you don't miss any payments.

Components of a credit score, sorted by importance:

(These percentages are how FICO, one agency, evaluates these)

  •  Payment history (35%):

    • DO NOT MISS PAYMENTS

    • That's it, don't miss payments and you will be fine. Miss payments and you start a spiral of credit debt that accumulates interest. Most beginner credit cards are 26% APR, which is the amount of interest they charge ON TOP of what you already owe. Perhaps you simply forgot to pay but you have the funds, then pay it off immediately and be more careful next time. 

  •  Total amount owed (30%):

    • This is also known as revolving utilization. For example, your credit limit could be $2000. At the end of the month, you spend $1000 of that limit which results in 50%. This is BAD. You want your utilization to be <12%. There are two ways to alleviate this:

      • Get a higher credit limit but this is tricky because students generally don't have a good stable income and have a very limited history

      • Make multiple payments per month so your monthly statement is 12% or less. For example, I typically spend $700 of my $1750 credit limit per month. Just before my billing cycle closes, I pay off all but $20. Thus, my statement shows I owe $20 which is 1.1% and looks very very good.

  • Length of credit history (15%):

    • The average length of your lines of credit. 3+ years is good territory. Anything less is detrimental to your credit score.

  • Types of credit (10%):

    •  Loans vs credit cards, etc

  • New credit (10%):

    • How many credit lines do you have basically. This is kinda touchy because while it is natural growth to apply for more cards, doing so can also seem like a desperate money move.

Cashback incentives:

Many credit card companies have cashback incentives. This is to incentivize you to use their card when buying common goods and services. Some cashback can be 1.5% everything, or things like 5% off any dining expenses. Cashback is money you get with no strings attached! Of course, always remember there is no such thing as a free lunch.

Another disclaimer/recommendation:

IF YOU FEEL RESPONSIBLE ENOUGH TO OPEN A LINE OF CREDIT,  and want to work on your credit score here are some options you can exercise:

  1. Contact your parents to see if you can become an authorized cardholder on their account. You will have to work out a system on how to pay your bills, but being under your parents’ is a good idea since they know what they are doing by now (hopefully).

  2. Use Credit Karma 

Taxes for Students Who Work

If your taxable income (work + investments mainly) was below $69,000 in 2019, you can peruse this website from the IRS (internal revenue service) for tools to file taxes for free. The standard deduction for 2019 is $12,200 -- if you made less then you don't have to pay federal and state income taxes (but you should still file a tax return!). If it is above the standard deduction, then you do. 

There are multiple situations that may apply to you:

  1. If you worked, or have any taxable income (investments/work mainly), I would highly recommend filing taxes for the 2019 year, and definitely if you did not claim to withhold. Even if you indicated to withhold taxes, you will still probably get a small refund (Georgia gave me $2 lol).


  1. If you worked, made over $12,200 in 2019, are not married, under 65, and not under special circumstances (such as self-employment) you have to file your taxes.

 

  1. If you are financially independent (you pay >50% of all living expenses including tuition), you could file taxes as an Independent (you'd be filing separate from your family, make sure to talk to your head of household about this), and follow a few other criteria, you could get awarded the $1,200 stimulus check. Unfortunately, most students are financially dependent so they will not get awarded this check.

    1. Who will and won't get the stim check: https://www.forbes.com/sites/zackfriedman/2020/04/12/stimulus-checks-college-high-school-students/#4f625ef07fe8

To file taxes using a web service you will need your:

  1. 1098-T form

    1. You can find this from your college’s bursar portal, but check with your head of household if they have claimed you as a dependent because they probably already used this then

  2. All W-2s from places you have worked the past year

    1. Electronic is ideal, but paper is ok too. You can find this online or email your company HR

  3. Social Security Number

  4. Bank account (routing + account number)

    1. For direct deposit, otherwise, you will be mailed a check to your address

  5. Any 1099 forms from your investment accounts

These services will walk you through with what you need. I think most of us are in similar boats, so the above items should suffice. 

Resources:

      Freefile website for free tax services

https://apps.irs.gov/app/freeFile/

      Who has to pay taxes

https://turbotax.intuit.com/tax-tips/irs-tax-return/does-everyone-need-to-file-an-income-tax-return/L7pluHkoW

      $12,000 standard deduction

https://www.nerdwallet.com/blog/taxes/standard-deduction/

High Yield Savings Accounts

Everyone should look into a high yield savings account. Also, this topic is a bit more economical. High yield saving accounts are accounts where you keep your (emergency) money stored for no-risk high-interest gains. This interest percentage is called APY (not to be confused with APR which is how much interest you owe on each compounding payment, such as a loan or credit card bill -- APR is pretty much the opposite of APY). The higher the APY, the better. However, these APY percentages are highly influenced by monetary policy. The monetary policy helps sway the economy into a particular direction, either when it is stagnant or when it is growing too rapidly. Bank rates can also be affected by a myriad of other reasons.

Banks have a lot of competition to have you store your money with them. Banks use the money you deposit to engage in more loans, which in the long run earns more money for the bank. It's sort of a win-win situation.

Things to look for in a high-yield savings account:

      APY

      FDIC insured

      This is so if something happens where your money is affected, the govt will insure your money up to $250,000

      How often is it compounded? Quarterly, monthly, daily?

       You want more frequent compounding because this is basically the bank reinvesting your savings so you earn more in the long run

      Minimum account requirement, if any

      Fees for withdrawing/depositing money from a bank account

      Fees for inactivity

      UI design of the bank -- is it easy to use? Is it a hassle in the long run?

      Online banking only options

CDs:

These are certificates of deposits with the bank where you essentially "lock-in" your money for a certain time with the bank, and in return, the bank offers you a higher APY. For example, I have 5,000 dollars where I sign a CD for a 1-year term. In return, the bank keeps my money put for a year and offers me a 2% APY. As you can guess, the higher the term length the higher the APY they offer you will be.

This advice applies to EVERYONE. Regardless of your savings, you should be earning risk-free interest on them. Otherwise, you're basically wasting money. Sure, the interest could work out to be a mere $100 per year. Still, that is money you get without doing anything and without risking anything (if they are FDIC insured). However, you need to take into account inflation and how that will affect your savings in the long run. If inflation is growing faster than your money is, your purchasing power will ultimately decrease.

Resources:

      This website is good for exploring various APYs banks are currently offering

       https://www.bankrate.com/banking/savings/rates/

 

      Also, if you would like more economic background, these articles are good

https://www.bankrate.com/banking/federal-reserve/how-fed-interest-rate-decisions-impact-your-money/

https://www.bankrate.com/banking/federal-reserve/federal-reserve-impact-on-savings-accounts/

Budgeting

Everyone should look into a high yield savings account. Also, this topic is a bit more economical. High yield saving accounts are accounts where you keep your (emergency) money stored for no-risk high-interest gains. This interest percentage is called APY (not to be confused with APR which is how much interest you owe on each compounding payment, such as a loan or credit card bill -- APR is pretty much the opposite of APY). The higher the APY, the better. However, these APY percentages are highly influenced by monetary policy. The monetary policy helps sway the economy into a particular direction, either when it is stagnant or when it is growing too rapidly. Bank rates can also be affected by a myriad of other reasons.

Banks have a lot of competition to have you store your money with them. Banks use the money you deposit to engage in more loans, which in the long run earns more money for the bank. It's sort of a win-win situation.

Things to look for in a high-yield savings account:

      APY

      FDIC insured

      This is so if something happens where your money is affected, the govt will insure your money up to $250,000

      How often is it compounded? Quarterly, monthly, daily?

       You want more frequent compounding because this is basically the bank reinvesting your savings so you earn more in the long run

      Minimum account requirement, if any

      Fees for withdrawing/depositing money from a bank account

      Fees for inactivity

      UI design of the bank -- is it easy to use? Is it a hassle in the long run?

      Online banking only options

CDs:

These are certificates of deposits with the bank where you essentially "lock-in" your money for a certain time with the bank, and in return, the bank offers you a higher APY. For example, I have 5,000 dollars where I sign a CD for a 1-year term. In return, the bank keeps my money put for a year and offers me a 2% APY. As you can guess, the higher the term length the higher the APY they offer you will be.

This advice applies to EVERYONE. Regardless of your savings, you should be earning risk-free interest on them. Otherwise, you're basically wasting money. Sure, the interest could work out to be a mere $100 per year. Still, that is money you get without doing anything and without risking anything (if they are FDIC insured). However, you need to take into account inflation and how that will affect your savings in the long run. If inflation is growing faster than your money is, your purchasing power will ultimately decrease.

Resources:

      This website is good for exploring various APYs banks are currently offering

       https://www.bankrate.com/banking/savings/rates/

 

      Also, if you would like more economic background, these articles are good

https://www.bankrate.com/banking/federal-reserve/how-fed-interest-rate-decisions-impact-your-money/

https://www.bankrate.com/banking/federal-reserve/federal-reserve-impact-on-savings-accounts/